Mega Rad Gun Thread -

Club Sandwich

kiwifarms.net
Is it normal for ARs to have problems seating mags? Didn't have any problems at first but recently have been having trouble getting them to lock into place unless I use a little force.
it should move into place easily with the bolt carrier group held to the rear. if it's binding somewhere it can be identified by looking for shiny spots on the plastic or aluminum of the magazine where it's rubbing on the interior of the magazine well.

on a closed bolt, and a full magazine, it will take a small amount of force to fully seat, as noted by @Particle Bored , however even fully loaded unused magazines should not be difficult to seat on a closed bolt if you reload smartly, with authority and slap the bottom of the magazine on seating to ensure it engages the magazine catch.

the most common difficulties are either an out of spec magazine (one-off problems with the welding on the body of the magazine), the magazine not being fully compatible with the lower (non-standard AR-15 lowers and non-standard magazines can combined to not fit together properly - EMAGs in a Hesse receiver for example), or an out of spec lower (a distant third, but sometimes flashing or artifacts of the manufacturing process can have a ridge or something on the interior of the magazine well so that the clearance for magazines is lower than what it should be).

it's usually best to identify and replace out of spec parts and replace them, or if the out of spec part is difficult to replace, to determine a least-intensive adjustment can be made to allow fitting of out of spec and in spec parts.
Anyone here ever owned a Meprolight M21?
they used to be a very popular item in my shop, and i still have a few kicking around. they're fairly good, rugged reflex sights although somewhat tall compared to alternatives in the 30mm size.
 

Kamov Ka-52

Punished Jannie, Wedded A Thot.
Supervisor
True & Honest Fan
kiwifarms.net
Even when the bolt is locked back? If the bolt is closed it will take a little force as the top round gets pushed down like 1/16th-1/8th" as it presses on the bottom of the BCG. If the bolt is open mag should slide easily in all the way to locked.

Have you adjusted/replaced your mag release?Maybe it's overtightened? Maybe back it off a revolution or two.
it should move into place easily with the bolt carrier group held to the rear. if it's binding somewhere it can be identified by looking for shiny spots on the plastic or aluminum of the magazine where it's rubbing on the interior of the magazine well.

on a closed bolt, and a full magazine, it will take a small amount of force to fully seat, as noted by @Particle Bored , however even fully loaded unused magazines should not be difficult to seat on a closed bolt if you reload smartly, with authority and slap the bottom of the magazine on seating to ensure it engages the magazine catch.

the most common difficulties are either an out of spec magazine (one-off problems with the welding on the body of the magazine), the magazine not being fully compatible with the lower (non-standard AR-15 lowers and non-standard magazines can combined to not fit together properly - EMAGs in a Hesse receiver for example), or an out of spec lower (a distant third, but sometimes flashing or artifacts of the manufacturing process can have a ridge or something on the interior of the magazine well so that the clearance for magazines is lower than what it should be).

it's usually best to identify and replace out of spec parts and replace them, or if the out of spec part is difficult to replace, to determine a least-intensive adjustment can be made to allow fitting of out of spec and in spec parts.
I'm using G2 PMags.

I fiddled with the mag release a little and that seems to have solved the problem, thanks for the help.
 

ulsterscotsman

᚛ᚂᚐᚋᚆ ᚇᚆᚓᚐᚏᚌ ᚐᚁᚒ᚜
True & Honest Fan
kiwifarms.net
they used to be a very popular item in my shop, and i still have a few kicking around. they're fairly good, rugged reflex sights although somewhat tall compared to alternatives in the 30mm size.
Planning to get a couple, hope Mepro doesn't charge up the ass in 10 years time when it comes to replacing the tritium.
 

Silas

Sensitivity Expert
kiwifarms.net
I promised my wife I wouldn't spend money on things for a while so I haven't bought a gun since my FNX-45 Tactical in the fall and I am itching for New Gun Day fiercely.
 
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Kamov Ka-52

Punished Jannie, Wedded A Thot.
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True & Honest Fan
kiwifarms.net
Speaking of already having the itch, are the Arsenal Bulgarian AKs worth the extra 3-400 over the WASRs or PAPs?
 

Petey Wheatstraw

kiwifarms.net
Looking to build my first AR and looking for suggestions on uppers. I wanted to build a CAR-15 tribute so I bought an Anderson lower and parts kit along with a CAR stock and original M16 pistol grip, but I'm not sure what upper to get to finish off the build. Buying this as a range toy in 5.56 so that I can get my partner into guns, but might want to convert it later into .300 Blackout for hunting things. Del-Ton seems to make decent upper assemblies for the money but I'm looking for other CAR-ish uppers at a sub-300 cost that aren't PSA...
 

Club Sandwich

kiwifarms.net
Looking to build my first AR and looking for suggestions on uppers. I wanted to build a CAR-15 tribute so I bought an Anderson lower and parts kit along with a CAR stock and original M16 pistol grip, but I'm not sure what upper to get to finish off the build. Buying this as a range toy in 5.56 so that I can get my partner into guns, but might want to convert it later into .300 Blackout for hunting things. Del-Ton seems to make decent upper assemblies for the money but I'm looking for other CAR-ish uppers at a sub-300 cost that aren't PSA...
a fairly "correct" one would be a model 733/735, possibly with an older xm177 from Troy or something: https://retrorifles.com/colt-733-commando-735-c8-6933-movies-black-hawk-down-heat/

i used, and still use a rather retro (now at least) early 80's model 733 as a handy carbine. it is quite loud in doors, but is small enough that it will not feel "big" to new shooters. be aware that you should try to use an H or heavier buffer depending on the precise gas system (gas port size, position, et c) for the barrel you are purchasing. the model 733 never had consistent specifications and over the years of production would be seen with A1, A1E1, and A2 parts with only a handful of unique parts (pencil profile 10.5 to 11.5 barrel, FSB with the bayonet lug milled off, single heat shield carbine handguards, two or four position carbine buffer tubes, et c).

Brownell's has a pretty competitive one in their retro line as well: https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/upper-receivers/xm177e2-upper-receivers-complete-5-56-prod123698.aspx

if you are looking for a more modern M16 Commando, you would want to review model 933 uppers, which are less expensive since the parts are produced in greater quantities than the older patterns. lots of clones out there, most being high quality (considering the two important criteria are an 11.5" barrel in a "pencil" profile: https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-11-5-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-upper-with-bcg-charging-handle.html

.300 AAC Blackout would require a new barrel in 1:10 or for bullets heavier than 180gr, 1:8, readily available from quality retailers.
 

MrJokerRager

I like me some nice big boobs
kiwifarms.net
Went to a gun store recently and learned that you can have pistol grips on AR style rifles if they fire 22lr ammo.

Also the guy sells mosins and other ww2 rifles if the 400 to 600 dollar range. Is the Mosin full barrel or the carbine better?
 

Prompt Critical

apropos-of-nothing
kiwifarms.net
Also the guy sells mosins and other ww2 rifles if the 400 to 600 dollar range. Is the Mosin full barrel or the carbine better?
In my personal opinion the M44 carbine (short length version with fixed side-folding bayonet) is the coolest of the post-WWI Mosin variants. Although if you've never shot something with a such a short barrel that fires a full power rifle round, I'd recommend if at all possible you try shooting one belonging to somebody else before you buy one. Not everybody enjoys the experience.

From what I've seen in US northeast market, the going rate is about $300 for a round receiver Mosin M91/30 in good condition, and about $400 for an M38 or M44. If someone is charging more than that, they're probably trying to gouge you unless the gun they have for sale is an unusual example with more desirable/rare features.

If you post what specific things he has you were interested in, and the amounts asked, I can give a rough guess as to if it's a fair price or not, as well as some pointers on what to look for if buying one.

I mentioned a bit back in the thread, but the price of M91/30 and other Mosin-Nagants has absolutely skyrocketed in the last few years, to the point where they're no longer a good cheap entry point to get into surplus collecting. There are much better options now in the same approximate price range.
 

Martys_not_smarty

You don't know what hard times are daddy.
kiwifarms.net
Looking to build my first AR and looking for suggestions on uppers. I wanted to build a CAR-15 tribute so I bought an Anderson lower and parts kit along with a CAR stock and original M16 pistol grip, but I'm not sure what upper to get to finish off the build. Buying this as a range toy in 5.56 so that I can get my partner into guns, but might want to convert it later into .300 Blackout for hunting things. Del-Ton seems to make decent upper assemblies for the money but I'm looking for other CAR-ish uppers at a sub-300 cost that aren't PSA...
If you want to go a on the unique exotic side and are willing to spend a little under 500$ you can go with a Wolf A1 upper: https://www.atlanticfirearms.com/products/wolf-a1-upper
It's the import version of the upper used on the Taiwan's military assault rifle the T91, a piston system that's similar to the H&K offering for quite a bit less.
Also the guy sells mosins and other ww2 rifles if the 400 to 600 dollar range. Is the Mosin full barrel or the carbine better?
400 to 600$ for a Mosin? That's pretty steep for something that isn't a sniper model or a Cadillac quality Finnish or American contract WWI model. Call me out of date with my old man yelling at clouds but I got my 91/30 less than a decade ago for 120 bucks with all the bells and whistles and save for the wood needing a good revarnishing was in cherry condition.
 
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Particle Bored

I am made out of toothpicks and glue
True & Honest Fan
kiwifarms.net
Went to a gun store recently and learned that you can have pistol grips on AR style rifles if they fire 22lr ammo.

Also the guy sells mosins and other ww2 rifles if the 400 to 600 dollar range. Is the Mosin full barrel or the carbine better?
Yeah assault weapon regs only cover centerfire, not 22LR. Also a note re: Club Sandwich's comments above, if you're in california (given your mention of pistol grips) all NFS items (e.g. barrels shorter than 16") are banned, and AR pistols are assault weapons (and all AR receivers are automatically registered as "'rifles").
 

Prompt Critical

apropos-of-nothing
kiwifarms.net
Call me out of date with my old man yelling at clouds but I got my 91/30 less than a decade ago for 120 bucks with all the bells and whistles and save for the wood needing a good revarnishing was in cherry condition.
Nah, same here. I bought a very nice 1931 hex receiver Izhevsk 91/30 around 2014 for $125, and like yours it included the full kit (cleaning and disassembly tools, ammo pouches, sling, bayonet). Every gun show had at least one vendor with a crate of them packed in straw, and you could usually pick through it looking for particularly nice or desirable ones. Unfortunately, those days (not too long ago) are probably never coming back.

400 to 600$ for a Mosin? That's pretty steep for something that isn't a sniper model or a Cadillac quality Finnish or American contract WWI model.
My understanding is that the pipeline bringing imported ex-Soviet military surplus to the US originated in Ukraine and it was permanently disrupted by the 2014 Russian annexation of Crimea (thanks, Putin). As supplies of new imports dried up, previously bargain-priced Russian guns like Makarovs, Nagant revolvers, and M91/30s have more than tripled in the past half decade.

As horrifying as it is, these price increases are across the board, so ones that were already expensive before have increased by the same amount over that time frame. SVT-40s are pushing $2000, genuine M91/30PU snipers over $1000 (although the market is absolutely flooded with reproductions and fakes, so the real value could be even higher), Finnish rebuilt or [SA] marked Finn capture guns pushing $450-600. You're unlikely to find a non-rebuilt M1891 in any condition for less than $450, and the really desirable manufacturers (New England Westinghouse, Remington, Chatellerault and Sestroryetsk) are priced at $550+.

The only silver lining on the clouds is that people don't really seem to be buying Mosins or other ex-Soviet junk at these prices, so it's possible they might eventually stabilize and even start coming back down. We can only hope.
 

Martys_not_smarty

You don't know what hard times are daddy.
kiwifarms.net
SVT-40s are pushing $2000
You must be in Canada because I have never for the life of me seen a SVT in the wild but from what I hear they sent a shitton up North and they were going for pretty cheap like sub $1000. Something to do with the import laws on milsurp firearms, also they get those Norinco M1A clones that can be hit or miss but you get what you pay for.
 
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